Kalbarri

Stayed on Friday night at a free camp on the Murchison River.(I tell you some of these free camps (maintained by the WA Roads Dept) are better located than many caravan parks)

before heading into the Kalbarri National Park early on Saturday morning.

The wildflowers here are just fabulous

Below is Eagles Point, on the Murchison River (can you make out the Eagles Head rock formation)

and another view of the Murchison flowing through the National Park

and the view from the road driving into Kalbarri - just beautiful

Kalbarri is a pleasant tourist / fishing town on the Murchison mouth and with the weather much improved is a place to stay for a couple of days

After watching the Grand Final (didn't envy the 14deg temp) went for an 8 km bike ride south towards Red Bluff (pic below).

This will be our last coastal stop before heading home so will make the most of it before leaving on Sunday afternoon.

On the way out stopped at the Red Bluff lookout for some final pics.. Not bad I am sure you will agree

Shark Bay

Left Carnarvon early on Thursday morning for Shark Bay - main places being Denham (where we booked into the caravan park) and Monkey Mia. Shark Bay was placed on the World Heritage List in 1991.

On the way we called into the Hamelin Pool area, an area of hyper saline sea where stromatolites (colonies of micro-organisms that resemble the oldest and simplest forms of life found on earth about 3.5 billion years ago) are found.

These colonies are relatively new being "only" 3000 years old.

Hamelin Pool is one of only two places on earth where living marine stromatolites exist (don't know where the other place is).

Walking to the coast to view these organisms some feral goats (of which we saw heaps driving from Carnarvon) were browsing the country. They are a huge problem here and the authorities have several projects going trying to control their - and feral cat - numbers)

Having checked into the Denham park we drove out to Little Lagoon - reputedly a good fishing spot being a whiting habitat. It was pretty breezy and so I got into a position to cast with the wind. Had to walk out to almost waist deep to get the line into serious water.
Half an hour later, with things starting to freeze off and not one bite, I conceded defeat and drove back into Denham to warm up. The wind really picked up and during the night reached gale force proportions.
Up at sparrows to get to Monkey Mia at 7:45 next morning - it was pretty cool and the wind was still blowing. Pity really cos Denham would be a pretty good place in decent weather.

Anyway got out and had the famous dolphin experience. Pretty interesting with about 10 presenting themselves.

Inside the car on the drive back it was nice and warm.

Looks like a flying saucer landing pad below - must be dried up lake

It was still coldish and windy and after a drive to the Francis Peron National Park we decided that discretion was the better part of valour and set off south looking for an escape from the gales.

Stopped for a break and something to eat at Shell Beach. Millions of tiny shells (10 feet deep) making up the surface.

Then drove about 300km south to some better weather just north of Kalbarri.

Carnarvon

Left Coral Bay about 8am on Tuesday 22nd and drove into a headwind all the way to Carnarvon - would have been the worst fuel consumption for the whole trip if I had been game to measure it.

Because we've done about 11,000 km so far I had booked the Prado in for a service at the local Toyota dealaer - 80,000k service and got it there at 11am.

We went for a quick bike ride around town, had lunch and soaked up some sun until the Toyota dealer rang saying the car was ready. Needed that to go and get some more beer, wine, cider and food.

Next day rode out to the mile long jetty

It hard to believe that a train could run on those tracks - but here it is

Then had a look at the small boat harbour (small boats not a small harbour, although the harbour is pretty small too)

and the "Fascine" - which is the bay formed by the Gascoyne River and sea.

We drove out to Quobba Point where there is a blowhole (waves forced up through holds in the cliffs)

There is a sign there saying "Killer waves Kill", a plaque with names of people who drowned while fishing and a couple of life buoys. Fishing from these ledges would be ok don't you think?

Anyway I chickened out and went fishing a bit further south down on a safe beach. Got a couple of small salmon (both marginally bigger than a large goldfish).

The Coral Coast

Arrived in Exmouth about lunch time on Wednesday after free camping the night before and having travelled via Tom Price and Paraburdo.

After booking into a caravan park we began to suss out camping at the Cape Range National Park. A sign in town said no camp sites available today so we drove out to have a look. The park entry point is about 50km out of Exmouth and when we got there the ranger seemed quite off hand telling us that to get in we need to get out there about 6:30am and queue up with everybody else to find out at 8am whether any sites will be available. We agreed that this is a pox set up and although we were looking forward to a few days here decided that Coral Bay would be a better proposition to snorkel over the Ningaloo reef.

We drove down to the first couple of camping areas which look pretty good - right on the beach but since consoled ourselves hearing good things about Coral Bay.

Had a look around Exmouth - when Mum and Dad were here in the early 80s they were able to look over the Harold E Holt Naval Centre. However it is now "top secret" and off limits.

There is a big Novotel Marina partly finished so it looks as though this little place will be on the luxury tourist trail.

The lookout at the lighthouse was worth seeing (see the waves breaking over the Ningaloo reef) - could see several off shore gas platforms

After buying some grub at the supermarket we settled in for the night and left early next morning.

Arrived in Coral Bay (population 190) - (note the wind generators in the background)about 11am and immediately had a good feeling about the place. It consists of 1 road, 2 caravan parks right across from the beach, a pub with accommodation, a backpackers, a few shops and houses and exists purely for tourists. We booked in for 5 days.

The reef is only metres from the shore with fish (big snapper) swimming at the waters edge almost beaching themselves. They must be used to being fed - there is a daily fish feeding where they explain about the fish life and request that people don't feed or touch them.

So far I have snorkelled a couple of days with the multitudes of fish varieties and heaps of coral. Tomorrow plan to walk a fair way to the south and drift along the reef back to town.

About 2km north of the "town" along the beach is a shark nursery where they come to breed at this time of year. Went for a stroll down there yesterday afternoon and saw about 20 (each about 2.5 metres long) swimming up and down 5 metres from shore.

Put the trailer together and took the tinnie down to one of the best boat ramps I have seen. It was only built a couple of years ago and has 2 lanes with non slip surfaces, facilities for tying up while parking trailers, shelter from the prevailing winds and a small breakwater.

Have been fishing twice - have to motor about 2km south of ramp to get out of the sanctuary - first day no good - but today got plenty of bites, lost plenty of bait but landed enough for a couple of meals - whiting (one largish one) and some emperor.

Cooked up the emperor (some type of snapper) on the Cobb using a modified recipe (using whatever ingredients I could scrounge) and it was very tasty even if I say so myself.

Walked about a kilometre south along the beach this morning and jumped in the water, swam out to the reef and drifted back to the bay. Heaps of fish to rival the Barrier reef, swimming in large diverse corals. Just great!

Had a call from the McCormacks (filling up with fuel in Port Hedland) who had heard that Coral Bay would be booked out during the school holidays (starting this weekend). Sure enough the park reception confirmed that from Sat 26th to Oct 9th the place is chocka. They asked me to book them in from tonight till Sat - having decided to detour from the current plan to head to Karajini - they will probably back track to there on the weekend.

Tried an experiment today - snorkelled out from the beach fishing zone this arvo with a handline to see if I could hook a big one. It would have worked a treat except the only bait I had left was a 2 week old pilchard which just about disintegrated when put on the hook. Managed to get some on and swam out. A fish bit at it, the bait fell apart so no cigar - but with some good bait it might just work - too bad we are leaving for Carnarvon tomorrow.

The Pilbara

The Pilbara

Left Broome about 9am on Sunday 13th and had a long uneventful drive to a free camp about 80km north of Port Hedland (De Greys River).

Nice little spot on the bank – even some water in the river bed.

Filled up with fuel at Hedland about 8am next morning and had a quick look around – I worked here for a month or two in 1976 but can't remember much except for 6 days a week, 12 hours a day, Saturday night at the pub, Sunday hangover.

Then drove on to Karijini National Park arriving about 1pm – booked into the Dales Gorge campground had lunch and then went walking. Went via

Fortesque Falls to the Fern Pool

where we had a lovely refreshing swim.

The gorges here are different from those in the Kimberley. Here you descend into the gorge rather than walk up through a river bed between mountains. They are spectacular in their own way with vivid red cliffs and clear blue water pools.

From the Fern Pool we walked the length of Dales Gorge to the Circular Pool

– no-one else there and it was not only very beautiful but also extremely tranquil. A steep climb back up to the top followed be a cliff top walk with several lookouts was enough for one day – besides it was well after beer o’clock by this time.
Unfortunately Jill grew a couple of blisters during the days outings so out with the bandaids for the following day where we drove about 40km on a good dirt road to Weano Gorge, Joffre Gorge,

Knox Gorge

and Hancock’s Gorge. Most of them had a great lookout just a few hundred metres from the respective car parks.
We then climbed down a steep path plus ladder into Hancock’s Gorge and walked along to

Kermit’s Pool

and Rankin’s Pool

(which is named after an SES volunteer who perished trying to save people caught in a flash flood)

Both were very picturesque. Once again we had these pools to ourselves this time having got there early in the morning before most other campers had made a move. This walk was a category 5 walk and reasonably difficult although not that long.
The harder walks required abseiling gear and skills so we didn’t bother about then and drove back to camp via Kaliman Falls.
After lunch a few hours driving via Tom Price (apparently the tours no longer include the actual open cut mine and since I have worked in plenty of these and since Jill isn’t interested in other mining infrastructure (crushers, screens, conveyors, trucks etc) we didn’t stay), and Paraburdo we camped at another free camp on the way to Exmouth and the Ningaloo reef.

Kununurra to Broome

Kimberley - Kununurra to Broome
Having been bitten on our trip to Coffin Bay at Easter where the SA border patrol confiscated our home grown onions and potatoes, we said we “won’t get fooled again”. So a massive vegie stir fry for tea, vegies on toast for breakfast and tomato sandwiches for early lunch beat the WA quarantine man before drove into the iconic lake.
Checked in to the nice little and friendly caravan park and while washing all the red dust off the van began chatting to an Irish/English couple Katy and Paul. Her accent is a dead ringer for Anne Brady so I almost appeared intelligent when correctly guessing she was a Belfast native. They were driving an older Ford Falcon so we offered them a lift to sunset lookout which is accessible by a rugged 4WD track. What a fabulous place!

Sunday was boating on Argyle day.

We put the tinnie straight in from the roof which worked fine. The forecast max was 36 deg and it was getting up there by 9:30 when we were on the water. Luckily a slight wind sprang up and since it traversed this huge lake it was a bit like a sea breeze cooling us down. For the first 20 minutes or so it was awesome to navigate just a minor section before we settled down to some fishing. We both got some catfish with Jill taking the cake with a 1.5kg catch on a handline. It was so spectacular boating around and close to sheer red rock faces in water 45 metres deep at times.

Left for Kununurra on Monday 24th. After booking into Kimberleyland Park (sounds like Disney Land) we sussed out the tourist information.

Decided to book a scenic flight at 2:30pm over the Bungle Bungles via Lake Argyle and then return via Argyle Diamond Mine.
Four of us including the pilot took off and tracked over Lake Argyle in a 7 seater Cessna. Needless to say the views were sensational. We landed at the Bungles airstrip where 2 additional passengers (with equivalent weight of 4) got on. This necessitated musical chairs on board to balance weight distribution. Jill had to go right to the back and I had to adopt the co-pilots position. After almost running out of runway, the poor little Cessna laboured into the air and we resumed circling the sights before flying around the Arglyle Diamond mine. The pictures speak for themselves – it was a great experience. Landed about 5:10 pm and hot footed it to the supermarket to stock up with food and a litre of gin (on special for $41.99).

Spent most of Tuesday on the Ord River in the tinnie fishing. Not much luck cos only caught one catfish, spiked my thumb on one of its sharp spikes and cut my finger with the knife when bleeding it. Other than that it was great just to motor up and down the iconic Ord.

Wednesday had a terrific time – went to Marlgu Billabong on the road to Wyndham. During the dry season water sources become scarce and heaps of birds gather here until it rains again.
Among the Brolgas, Jabiru and thousands of other birds

and Darters were several sizeable salt water crocs. While we were watching a croc captured a large duck and then had to evade his “mates” as they want some of the spoils. There also were many large barrumundi lazing beneath the bird hide. A couple we met here had an unused pass (worth $34) which is required to visit El Questro Wilderness Park. After promising them a gin and tonic if we ever met them again, they gave it to us.

On to Wyndham (about 100k north of Kununurra) where the Ord, Pentecost, King, Durack and Forest Rivers meet and flow into the Cambridge Gulf and then into the Timor Sea. The view from the Fiver Rivers Look out is superb.
The other good thing about Wyndham is that fuel is 14c/litre cheaper than Kununurra. I was getting a bit low and managed to fit 130 litres into the Prado (at 141c/litre).
On the way back we stopped by the Ivanhoe crossing on the Ord River. Kids were swimming and people fishing right out in the middle of the river despite known sitings of crocs. Crazy! Jill got a couple of local aboriginal boys on video telling us about 18m and 19m crocs they had seen and that they just talk to the crocs telling them “not to bite us”. Wonder if they were winding us up?
Wouldn’t you know it, when we got back to the caravan park, the couple who gave us the El Questro pass had pulled in just opposite our site.

Thursday was our final full day in this area and we spent the day at El Questro, about 100km west of Kununurra. We fired up early as the temp has been about 37deg the last few days and we wanted to do any walks before it got that hot. First stop at the start of the Gibb River Road to talk to Klaus, an eccentric German who is walking around with his 2 camels which tow a trailer (a modified motor vehicle). He was a bit upset as his dog had taken a bait meant for dingos the previous night and died.
Next we called into Emma Gorge for a 1.7km walk along a rocky path to a great swimming pool underneath a waterfall. Jill was able to have a dip now that the plaster is off the broken arm. (I am still doing the dishes!)
About 20 km further on is Zebedee springs which have a series of thermal pools. Once again it was a short walk before you could immerse but our timing was excellent as a tour bus arrived just as we were leaving.
Had lunch at the centre of the park before visiting El Questro Gorge which had a couple of nice river crossings to drive across before we go the car park. A group of indigenous boys who were on an elite footballers camp were swimming at this gorge. We got talking to one of the supervisors who explained how the scheme they were running is proving successful in engaging these young kids using such camps as rewards for school attendance etc. It was apparently set up by Gerald Neesham (the first coach of the Fremantle Dockers).

Tomorrow the Bungle Bungles

The Bungles

On Friday we drove to Warnum (aka Turkey Creek) where they have caravan storage facilities for people who want to drive into the Bungle Bungles. We got our camping gear and food for the night into the Prado, unhooked the van, took the boat off the roof and took off for Purnululu National Park where the Bungles are located. 53 km up the road and then a further 53km of rough, corrugated road with bull dust sections, creek crossings, etc which took 2 hours to get to the visitor centre. After paying the $20 camping fee, another 18km to the Walardi camping ground where we set up for the night. We only brought a sheet to cover the mattress thinking the night would be warm enough. Wrong! Had to use our towels to warm up from 1am onwards
Set off at 6 a.m. (thanks to the dawn chorus birds!) to do the Domes,

Piccaninny Creek lookout,

Cathedral Gorge

and
Echidna Chasm.

Definitely the visual highlight of this trip – they are sensational.
Got back to Turkey Creek later in the afternoon, hooked up and loaded the boat (in 37deg – lost a few litres of sweat I can tell you) and took off for a camp about 100km south of Halls Creek. Had a shower using the outside hose from the van tanks – the water was warm enough to classify it as a hot one.
Drove to Derby on Sunday via Halls Creek and Fitzroy Crossing – two non descript towns appearing to have plenty of alcohol induced problems.
Plan to spend a couple of days here looking around, catching up on correspondence and then taking a day expedition to the Horizontal Falls.

Longest cattle trough in Southern Hemisphere (must be long ones up north)

Boab Tree Prison

Derby Jetty

The plan is to (according to the blurb)
“All aboard our luxury 14 seat turbo prop jet seaplane.
Fly direct from Broome to the Horizontal Waterfalls
Board our 500hp fast boat "Jet Stream" (the fastest boat in the Kimberley). Experience an exhilarating thrill ride through the Horizontal Waterfallswith our highly experienced skipper.
Guided Fishing Tour (all gear supplied).
Now it's time to sit back and relax as you cruise through the spectacular untouched surrounding bays and creeks on board our custom built creek cruising vessel. Our commentary will reveal the flora, fauna and history of the region.
Enjoy a cooked breakfast/lunch on board our luxury vessel "Cyclone Creek" as you take in the breath taking scenery.
Scenic return flight over the thousand island, Buccaneer Archipelago.”
We got a $50 per person discount but it’s still costing heaps ($545 each) - hope the glowing recommendations of everyone who has had the experience are on the money

After being picked up at 8:15am at the caravan park, we joined 9 other people and the pilot at the Derby airport. The flight to the falls took about 30 mins with some great scenery capped off by a couple of passes over the falls. The Derby area has the highest tides (11 metres) in Australia and amongst the highest in the world. The falls are the result of these high tides passing through two narrow openings.
Once we landed on the water,

we were loaded onto a 20 ft inflatable boat powered by 2 x 250HP outboards. You can imagine the power and the speed it gets up to. Each passenger sits on a “saddle seat” and grips on a handle as the boat scoots through the falls.

On our trip the water was flowing at 29 knots (measured by the boat speedo reading as the skipper adjusted the throttle to keep the boat stationary in the middle of the stream).

As you can see Jill and I were up the pointy end

and consequently copped some serious spray but had the best possy during the 10 or so passes we had at the peak flow. Apparently during the biggest spring tides its not safe to take their boat through so it must get pretty fierce.

View of Falls from Sea Plane

Note the "slope" of the Falls!

Great Turbulence!

Aerial view of speedboat coming out of Falls

After these we boarded a larger observation vessel in which we navigated around parts of the coast. This location includes some of the safest anchorages in the region and is one where pearl luggers headed for during cyclone conditions. Before lunch there was a bit of fishing happening – one Liverpudlain lady caught a 3ft shark which was pretty interesting.
Lunch was barbequed salt water barrumundi which was delicious. Once we had digested all that it was time for another few passes thru the falls – this time the flow was a bit quieter and so were able to actual video during the action.
All good things come to an end but not before a 45min flight over the Buccaneer Archipelago on our way back to Derby.
It was really a fabulous day – the highlights of the Kimberley just seem to be getting more spectacular as we go.

On Thursday 3rd we departed for Broome – 220km away and an uneventful drive. The absolute peak season must have gone because we were able to easily get into the Cable Beach Caravan Park. You wouldn’t believe it but we were allocated a site (in the old section which everyone recommends although there isn’t much wrong with the new area) just 4 places away from the McCormacks.
Once we had got organised, a quick bike ride to Cable Beach (about 2 minutes away) revealed to most fabulous beach – kilometres of white sand with beautiful turquoise water.

Looking back at Cable Beach from Gantheume Point

Cycled past the nude beach where we saw heaps of fat old guys waddling up and down the sand.
We joined the McCormacks on the beach for sunset drinks – we took our bikes down – Alana and Justin (Mark and Gemma’s kids had a ride while we had a beer and wine while the sun went down). Jill and Justin rode the bikes back and promptly got lost. Luckily Jill recognised a pub we had seen earlier and knew they had gone the wrong way. About 10 minutes later they got home.
On Friday I went down to the jetty with Mark and Justin who threw a line in. A hump back whale about 500 metres away was breaching spectacularly.
There has been a reasonable breeze blowing each day we have been here rendering the sea unsuitable for small boat fishing but keeping the temperature down to about 31deg.
Each morning we have been for a 45min to 1 hour bike ride before breakfast – today went for a swim as well. Cant beat that for a start to the day.
Last night was the first of 3 days of the month when the “Staircase to the Moon” phenomenon occurs over Roebuck Bay. It happens when a rising full moon highlights the mud flats and gives the optical illusion of a stairway. My pictures could have been better so I might go down again tomorrow night to see if I can do any better.

Went down to another location last night to see the “Moon”. Was pretty good and accompanied by a guy evocatively playing the didge. – got talking to a couple next to me who turned out came from Pt Augusta – it ends up I played footy against him (name Kevin Scharenberg) and he worked with Ian at the power station. You couldn’t hide even if you wanted to cos someone always pops up.

Apparently the very low tides next week reveal the wrecks of boats sunk by Japanese attacks during WWII and it is possible to actually walk around them. Will have a look at them too.

Damn! Above was a bit of misinformation – doesn’t happen till 10 days time – will have to see it when we come back.
Took the bikes (and a couple of drinks) down to the beach tonight to watch the sunset

Jill - "soaking it up" at sunset on Cable Beach

Camels on Cable Beach

Today did a bit of sightseeing around Broome itself

Sun Picture Garden - allegedly oldest outdoor cinema in the world

Gauntheume Point

Japanese Cemetry - Broome

Another rule (No 2)has surfaced
“Overt patriotism betrays an inferiority complex” - especially the Wallies who must fly flags from their campsite – don’t they make you wonder.

On Thursday we are going to Cape Leveque for a couple of days

– will leave the van in Broome and camp at the park and tent it. We have hired one of these camp shelters which according to everyone are just great - right on the beach front
The blurb says

"If you are set up for camping, but want something a little different, then these are probably for you.The beach shelters are located on the beach front close to the water's edge and are made from bush poles with palm frond roof and walls and a sand floor. Each shelter has a picnic table, open fresh water shower and a wood barbecue. Shared ablution facilities are located nearby."

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any better up comes Cape Leveque. The road was 220km long from Broome and included about 80km of red dirt road, not too bad although corrugated in a few sections.
Kooljaman where we stayed for a couple of nights is a natural paradise. Our shelter was 30m from the beach and contained a wood fire barbeque, a rudimentary shower and tap, thatched roof and walls (with plenty of holes for air conditioning) although that wasn’t necessary as the whole front was open with a view over the sea.
Mark and Gemma had decided to stay there as well and were about 40 m away from us. Mark, Justin (his son) and I went fishing on our first afternoon and caught 11 golden trevally and a couple of “blue bones”. Both Justin and I hooked something really big but before we could land reel in, sharks snaffelled them – hook sinker and all. Any way we were happy with the success. As we were out there every now and again there came a loud thump, thump which turned out to be whales breaching and hitting the water with their tails and fins – all behind our backs.
Because we only were able to book in for a couple of days – the place is that popular – we just did some reconnoitreing so that when we come back for a longer time we will know what to do.
Next day went fishing again, this time with our boat as well as Mark thinking of a big haul. I didn’t get one bite, Justin caught a nice Mangrove Jack and nobody else got anything that was legal. The water was quite rough with a 1.5m swell and also a bit choppy with the tide going out so it wasn’t as enjoyable as the previous day
On the way home called into One Arm Point – an aboriginal community – for a quick look and also meant to go into Beagle Bay but someone must have removed the sign cos we missed the turn and were back on the Broome Rd without seeing the way in there. Next time.
It was so good up there we have made a tentative booking for a week at Kooljaman in August next year as well as a month in Broome.